Friday, April 20, 2012

Calculate Board Feet

While hardwoods and softwoods may look somewhat similar in size and shape in stacks at the lumberyard, the method for calculating the cost of each is quite different. Softwoods are dimensional lumber, meaning that they are cut into uniform sizes (2x4, 1x8, etc.). All of the boards of the same size in a stack at the lumberyard are going to be the same price.

With hardwoods, the story is quite different. Hardwoods are sold by the board foot, which is a calculation of the cubic size of the board. A board foot is 12 inches by 12 inches by 1 inch, or one-twelfth of a cubic foot.


To begin, one must first understand the thicknesses of hardwoods. Typically, board thicknesses will be listed in fourths: 3/4 = .75 inch in thickness4/4 = 1.00 inch5/4 = 1.25 inches6/4 = 1.50 inches7/4 = 1.75 inches8/4 = 2.00 inches and so on...The formula for calculating board feet is as follows:

(length x width x thickness)/144


All of the dimensions in this formula are in inches. For instance, a 10-inch wide, 3/4 board that measures 96-inches in length would come out to five board feet: (96 x 10 x .75)/144 = 5


In another example, a 6/4 board that is 8 inches wide and 6-feet long (72 inches) would be six board feet: (72 x 8 x 1.50)/144 = 6


If you know the board feet measurement of each board and you know how much the lumberyard charges per board foot, you can determine the cost for that board. For instance, if the two boards above were oak, and you know that the lumberyard charges $18 per board foot for oak, in the first example above, the cost for the board would be $90 (5 BF x $18 per BF = $90).


In the second example, the price for that board would be $108 (6 BF x $18 = $108).


It's important to verify the price per board when you buy or sell lumber, because some yards like adjust to round numbers. In other words, if you try to buy three boards of oak that measure out to 6.72 BF, 5.69 BF and 7.71 BF, the lumberyard might try to round each board up to 7, 6 and 8 respectively. This seemingly minor adjustment would end up costing you an additional $15.84 over the actual BF prices for the three boards.


When going to buy hardwoods, don't be afraid to challenge their measurements. It doesn't hurt to keep a small calculator in your pocket and calculate the prices to check their figures. Most lumberyards will calculate it properly, but as you can see, just a small rounding can end up costing you quite a bit in the long run.


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Top Woodworking Safety Rules

Woodworking can be a safe and enjoyable hobby or vocation, IF you follow some very basic woodworking safety rules. All of the rules are common-sense ideas, but failure to follow these rules will greatly increase the chance of injury when working with your tools. The wood shop is not the place to be in a hurry or have an "it won't happen to me" attitude. Commit these ten rules to habit, and your woodworking experiences will be safer and much more enjoyable.

Proper use of Power DrillThe first and most important rule of woodworking is to wear appropriate safety equipment. While hearing protection is necessary for some very noisy tools such as routers and surface planers, and latex gloves may be necessary when applying finishes, there is no time in the wood shop that you should be without your safety glasses. Put them on when you enter the shop, and don't take them off until you leave. Your eyesight is too important to take chances.

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Rockwell SoniCrafter

The Rockwell SoniCrafter Oscillating Tool is a versatile power tool, as it can be used to cut, sand, scrape or polish not only wood, but also plastic, metal, brick, concrete and more. While it isn't a traditional "woodworking tool," it is very handy to have around the shop. It works great as a variable speed oscillating detail sander, and includes a variety of sanding pads and discs.

While the SoniCrafter isn't a woodworking power tool in the classic sense, it does seem to be solidly built, and is great for cutoffs and other tasks that would be more time consuming if done by hand.

The Rockwell SoniCrafter oscillating tool is Rockwell's entry into a line that was first popularized when Fein released their MultiMaster tool a few years ago. This one tool can handle a number of cutting, sanding and scraping tasks.

It certainly isn't a traditional woodworking power tool, but that doesn't preclude one from being useful around the woodshop. Attachments are easily changed or adjusted with the allen wrench, and many other tool accessories are available from Rockwell.


The SoniCrafter is also useful for hundreds of other tasks around the house or shop. For instance, the cutting tool was perfect for removing some extraneous plastic parts from a universal car stereo mounting kit I recently installed. Using the cutting tool, the pieces trimmed off cleanly and very quickly, and in a much safer manner than if I had been forced to cut the pieces off with a utility knife.


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Ryobi Tek4 Headphones

The Ryobi Tek4 (RP4530) Audio Plus Nose Suppression Headphones are full-coverage over-the-ear hearing protection headphones. When the unit is turned off, the comfortable hearing protectors to a very effective job of suppressing the sounds from loud power tools. When the unit is turned on, the built-in Speech Amplification Technology is designed to pick up voices and other desirable sounds to allow for normal conversations while reducing loud noises.

While background sounds are amplified higher than desired, the comfort and reduction of loud noises make these a viable option to traditional hearing protection.

The Ryobi Tek4 Audio Plus Noise Suppression Headphones are effective at reducing the noise levels of power tools, but they're very useful for other situations where hearing protection is advisable, such as hunting, mowing the lawn or attending an auto race. The quick response technology does a good job of reducing external sounds before they can cause damage to your hearing. The fact that the unit is weather resistant means you can wear them outside without being concerned if you get caught in a sudden rain storm.

After giving these Ryobi noise suppression headphones, I wanted a second opinion, so I asked a drummer who plays a lot of very loud music to give them a try. He typically wears foam ear plugs when he plays to protect his ears. However, after trying these headphones, he was very excited, because it gave him the opportunity to mix his iPod music and the live drums (that were picked up by the small microphones in the noise suppression headphones) in a way that protected his hearing but allowed him to play along with whatever music he chose on his iPod. While they certainly don't rival some of the audiophile-level noise suppression headphones available, he felt they were great for protecting his ears and giving him the ability to hear both his music and the drums.


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Radial Arm Saw Table

Radial-Arm Saw Radial-Arm Saw

I received the following question and thought the answer would be best shared in an article:
Q: I just purchased and older model radial arm saw (Craftsman) and the base is just a metal frame. I have never owned a radial arm saw, before. How do I go about making a base for the wood that I'll be cutting?

A: Nearly all radial-arm saws are designed with a metal base, to which a replaceable wooden surface can be affixed. There are a number of reasons for this design, but probably predominant in the list is that for many cuts, the blade of the radial-arm saw will actually cut into the table top. Using a surface made from wood will protect the saw blade and can easily be replaced when it becomes too worn out.


I've found that my favorite surface for the table top is MDF, or medium-density fiberboard. It is inexpensive, pretty durable (as long as it doesn't get wet) and it doesn't splinter when the radial-arm saw's blade cuts through it like plywood would.


You'll likely notice that there are a number of holes in the metal base into which you can attach bolts. The heads for these bolts should be recessed (into countersunk holes) in the top of the MDF so the bolts do not interfere with the working surface.


When installing a new surface, the first thing to check is to see that the travel of the radial-arm saw is even with the surface. To test this travel, set the angle of the radial-arm saw to 90-degrees, then lower the radial-arm saw until the blade is barely touching the surface of the MDF. Pull the saw forward. The blade should neither dig into the surface or lift away as the saw moves the length of it's travel. If it raises or lowers as you pull it across the surface, you'll need to adjust the saw (or in lieu of proper adjustments, you can place shims under the MDF surface as it sits on the frame).


Once the surface is true to the travel of the saw, the only thing left is to install a fence. The fence needs to be installed perfectly square to the saw when it is set to 90-degrees. I like to use a 2-1/2" wide piece of MDF on edge. I simply make a cut in the MDF surface where I want the fence to reside, and attach it to the large forward piece with a few MDF screws. The remaining space behind the fence can be filled with more MDF, bolted to the frame below.


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Tongue and Groove Joinery

Laying Out the Boards by the Grain Pattern Laying Out the Boards Based on Grain Pattern

Before beginning to make your tongue and groove joints, it is advisable to lay out the boards to try and find the combination that will look the best. Place the boards in an order that will align similar colors, grain patterns and knot locations that will look the best. Also, to avoid issues with cupping or warping down the line, alternate the end grain patterns (as shown in the image above) so that one board's grain faces up, the next down and so on.

I like to number the boards left to right at this point, so I know which way is up on each board and the order that I decided upon. I simply write the numbers 1, 2, 3 and etc. on the end grain of each board. You can also label them A, B, C and so on.


TIP: If you use numbers to label the ends, be sure to write a formal #1 (rather than just a vertical line), or you may not remember which side is up.


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Thursday, April 19, 2012

Select Lumber

If you've ever spent much time in a lumber yard, you've probably noticed customers examining each piece of stock by sighting down long axis of the piece. Are they looking for anything in particular, or are they just overly choosy about the stock that they choose to buy?

Well, it is probably both. What they're actually doing is looking for certain defects, to determine whether the piece of stock is acceptable for their woodworking project.


What defects should you look for when you buy your lumber?

Keep in mind, however, that a defect isn't always a problem. Some defects are actually beneficial, as they can lend character to a finished woodworking piece.

Case in point: a number of woodworkers like to recycle long-leaf pine stock from old barns and houses. Once any nails and screws have been removed and the stock has been planed, there are likely to be some old nail holes remaining in the stock. In many cases, these defects are left to be visible in the finished piece, as they lend a lot of character to the project.


In the end, the choice of whether to use stock with a defect is purely up to you.


More woodworking tips & plans here

Circular Saw Measuring Jig

Using a Circular Saw Jig Using a Circular Saw Jig

Poll any group of woodworkers, and you'll probably find that the consensus will agree that there is no more versatile power woodworking tool than the table saw. It is fast, can handle numerous repeatable tasks, and if used properly, is quite precise.

Is it possible to attain the table saw's level of precision and repeatability when you don't have access to a table saw?


If you have a circular saw, a couple of small clamps and a straight-edge, the answer is, "Absolutely!" With these basic tools and a piece of scrap stock, you can create a jig that will provide quickness and precision with a circular saw that rivals the table saw.


To explain, we'll use my circular saw as an example. If I measure the distance from the edge of the saw blade (on my circular saw) to the side of the guide, I find a distance of about 5-3/16". Now, if I wanted to consistently cut a sheet of plywood at 36" wide, I could measure 36" from the side of the sheet, subtract 5-3/16" and make pencil marks to align and clamp my straight-edge into place, then make the cut. However, if I have various-sized pieces to measure and cut, this amount of math can become quite cumbersome.


A simpler method is to rip a piece of stock the same width as the base of the circular saw (from the blade to the edge). This is easily done by clamping your straight-edge to your table about 4-1/2" from the edge of the table. Then, place the piece of stock to be ripped for the jig firmly against the straight-edge and trim it with the circular saw. Be sure to keep both the stock and the saw firmly against the straight-edge. After the piece is ripped, it should measure the exact same width as the base of your circular saw (from blade to edge; in my case, 5-3/16").


To use the jig in the previous example, you'd simply make two measurements of 36" onto the face of the plywood, one at the edge closest to your body and the other on the opposite end. Then, align the jig with these two marks (on the side of the marks that you want to keep, the 36"-wide side, in this case), and clamp the straight-edge into place, aligned with the other side of the jig. Then remove the jig and make the cut (keeping the base of the saw against the straight-edge the whole cut).


If done right, you should have a perfect cut, exactly as precise as you would've made on a table saw, quickly, easily and best of all, portably!


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Bird Feeder Plans

Cedar Bird Feeder Cedar Bird Feeder

(c) 2011 Chris Baylor licensed to About.com, Inc.Bird feeders come in many shapes, sizes and styles. With these free bird feeder plans, you can build a bird feeder with plexiglass sides to be able to view the amount of seed in the feeder. The top has as flip to open lid for easy filling, and the perch on each side is large enough to accommodate most songbirds.

This is an easy project to build, one that will bring years of enjoyment.

Download the Free Bird Feeder Plans to build a Cedar Bird Feeder (PDF).

Difficulty Level
Woodworking: EasyFinishing: None
Time to Complete
2-3 Hours
Recommended Tools
Miter Saw or Circular SawTable SawCordless Drill or Power Drill with bitsClaw HammerTape Measure
Materials Needed 2 - 1x8 x 8 Rough-cut Cedar1 - 4' piece of 1/2" Dowel2 - 5-3/4" x 15" pieces of 1/8" plexiglass2 - small brass hinges with screws4d finish nails

View the original article here

Choosing a Wood Shop Vacuum

Many woodworking shops have central dust collection systems that are connected to all major woodworking tools in the shop to keep sawdust to a minimum. In addition to keeping the tools' work surfaces cleaner, these dust collection systems will help keep sawdust out of the tool motors, which should lead to longer life for the machinery.

The problem is that most hobbyist or professional woodworkers may have limited shop space or a limited budget that prohibits the installation of a full-scale dust collection system.

Third, look for a unit that has a portable base and a low center of gravity. Often, these units tend to be pulled around by the hose, and if they are top-heavy, they'll fall over easily when being moved.

Fourth, try to find a unit that isn't overly loud. Some models are powerful, but require the user to wear hearing protection just to clean up the shop. While you may find this acceptable, it can be a hassle at times, particularly when you just want to clean up a small area.


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SawStop Table Saw Blade Brake

A study in the Journal of Hand Surgery revealed that woodworking equipment produces over 700,000 significant injuries a year. The study also revealed that 42% of the injuries occurred with a table saw, and 37% of those injured lost one or more digits in the accident. Additionally, the survey found that approximately 40% of the injuries occurred to professional woodworkers, those who work with these types of tools on a daily basis.

Now, please don't think that I'm trying to scare anyone from taking up woodworking. However, this study shows just how easily an injury can occur, even for those professionals who are well aware of the safety rules and features of the tools they use every day. Instead, I want to bring some attention to technology that is designed to help prevent these devastating injuries.


A few years ago, a safety system was developed that detects when the blade of the table saw is touched, a blade brake is employed to stop the saw blade within milliseconds. This safety technology was introduced in table saws produced by a company called SawStop, initially in a cabinet saw, and later in a comparable contractor saw.


How does it work?


The saw blade is given an electronic signal that sensors monitor constantly. If the signal on the blade drops below a certain range, a spring-loaded aluminum block is released into the blade which stops the blade in approximately 1/200th of a second. Tests have shown that when the blade brake is employed (after contact is made with one of the blade teeth), the blade comes to a complete stop in the time it takes for two or three more teeth to make contact with the skin. This means that what could have resulted in an amputation or other devastating injury to the operator being little more than a nick on the skin.


However, SawStop's technology doesn't stop there. As the blade comes to such a violently quick stop, the force of the inertia of the blade actually causes the blade to drop beneath the table top, while the motor is simultaneously shut off.


SawStop has developed a dramatic demonstration that shows this entire electronic detection system using a hot dog (instead of a human finger). They have a video of the "Hot Dog Demo" on the SawStop web site that shows exactly how the braking system works. While the video does a great job of showing the technology, if you ever get a chance to try the demo or see it in person, it is far more impressive. I've yet to see an instance yet where members of the audience didn't shriek or gasp when it happens, because it is so startlingly quick. A look at the hot dog shows that the blade, spinning at a few thousand RPMs, barely breaks the skin of the hot dog.


Once the brake has engaged the blade, both the blade and brake will need to be replaced, but the cost of a new blade and brake are inconsequential when compared to the possible loss of a finger (or worse). Changing the brake cartridge is as simple as changing the blade, whether the brake is employed on a single blade or a stacked dado set.


More woodworking tips & plans here

Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Computer Monitor Riser Plans

Build a Riser For Your MonitorsComputer Monitor Riser with dovetailed drawers Computer Monitor Riser with dovetailed drawers

Ergonomics are changing the way that companies are setting up their offices today. One issue that a number of very tall people face when they are seated at their desks is they have to look downward at their monitor. I can't count the number of times I've seen people use strong cardboard boxes, computer manuals and even telephone books under the base of their monitor to raise it up to eye level.

In this set of free woodworking plans, we've got a much better solution. We've built a beautiful hardwood computer monitor riser that sits under one or two monitors to raise them up over five inches! Additionally, the unit includes two very useful dovetailed drawers that are large enough to hold magazines or papers. You could even use it to raise a television a few inches higher in your living room or bedroom.


To complete these computer monitor riser plans, we used maple for the visible parts of the unit with poplar for the carcase and drawers. However, oak or another desirable hardwood would work well for the exterior, as would pine for the interior parts.


This woodworking project will really show off your skills as a craftsman, and is one you'll be proud to display for years and years.


Difficulty Level
Woodworking: ModerateFinishing: Stain and Polyurethane
Time to Complete
12-15 Hours
Recommended Tools
Miter Saw or Circular SawTable Saw or Radial Arm Saw with Dado SetCordless or Corded Power Drill Plate JoinerRouter with 3/4" Roundover BitDovetail Jig & Router Bits
Materials Needed 15' of 1x6 - Maple or Oak7' of 1x4 - Maple or Oak24' of 1x4 - Poplar or Pine2 square feet of 1/4" plywood2 Drawer HandlesTape MeasurePencilWoodworker's Glue1-inch wood screws1-5/8-inch wood screwsFinish nailsStain of color of choicePolyurethaneSandpaper

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CarveWright Machine

The CarveWright Wood Carving Machine (CW001), also sold as the Craftsman CompuCarve, is an innovative, compact table-top wood carving machine that is quite impressive. The software is very easy to learn and the wood carving machine creates carvings that are quite dramatic. While some hand-sanding of the final carving can be expected, the unit produces consistent, reproducible results that would impress even the most experienced woodworker.

While the unit is a bit expensive (about the same as a quality cabinet table saw), it is certainly not over-priced for the value and results it produces. We liked this tool a lot.

If ever there was a woodworking tool for "geeks," this is it. The CarveWright software is about as easy to use as a common "Paint" program (on either Mac or PC), and can create designs based on an included library of shapes, or manually using the drawing tools. Text can be added from a litany of font styles, and can be set to follow a curved path. (CarveWright also has an optional probe that can be used to "trace" existing carvings and other objects into the software.)

Once your design is completed, the file is downloaded onto a memory card (included). The memory card is then inserted into the CarveWright machine. After inserting the piece of stock to be carved, the operator follows the instructions on the LCD screen on the CarveWright to load the file for carving.


After the file is loaded and any options chosen, the CarveWright measures the board, then asks for a specific bit to be placed into the chuck. With the proper bit installed, the unit begins to carve the design.


We did encounter a few minor hiccups while working with the software. For one, we found that when using the text tool with some fonts, the last character was regularly chopped off. The simple workaround was to add a blank space after the final character.


We also noticed that, during the board measuring step prior to carving, the unit seemed to stop while a soft but consistent beep tone emitted from the machine. The first time this occurred, we turned off the machine after a minute or so, assuming that a system glitch had occurred (because nothing was apparently happening). However, when the same issue occurred on the second attempt, we walked away and found that after about three minutes, the unit proceeded properly.


All in all, this machine would be a terrific carving tool for small production shops. I know I could find a lot of uses for one in my shop!


More woodworking tips & plans here

Make a Set of Washer Boxes

Attach the Chain Attach the Chain

The last step of this woodworking project before we begin playing is to cut the chain to the proper length and attach it to the key rings. This will act as a spacer between the boxes so that the distance between the boxes is consistently at twelve feet.

To get the proper length, hold the key ring at the apex of the u-bolt and measure the distance from the end board to the tip of the key ring. Add this distance to the same measurement on the opposite u-bolt/key ring, and subtract the combined distances from twelve feet. This will tell you exactly how long to cut the chain to have a twelve-foot distance between the boxes.


Cut the chain using a hack saw or bolt cutters, then attach one end to each key ring. Pull the boxes apart so that the chain is taut, and position the boxes in line with the chain.


At last, you're ready to learn how to play washers!


TIP: While you certainly could paint or stain the plywood top, as you'll see when you begin playing, the surface gets pretty dinged up. As such, the paint really wouldn't protect the plywood that much. You're better off playing until the top wears out, then replace it with another piece of plywood. The plywood top should last a couple of summers before you need to consider replacing it.


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Woodworking Furniture Plans

Modular Coffee Tables

If you have a couch or sofa in your living room, chances are you either have, or could use a coffee table. Well, we've taken the coffee table one step further. In this set of free woodworking plans, learn how to build a matching pair of modular, glass-topped coffee tables. Two of these tables can be arranged together in a number of ways to make one larger coffee table, or they can be used independently as end tables. They have casters hidden underneath to make re-arranging the tables a snap, and are a surprisingly easy project to build.


More woodworking tips & plans here

Personalize Projects for Clients

 - CLICK TO ENLARGE

When I am designing projects for clients I often try to find things I can add to the images that make the piece a little more personal to the client. A while back I designed this combination wash stand and bench for a client who is a potter. He does sculptural pieces as well as wash basins. He was building a new house and wanted to feature one of his basins on a wash stand in an entry way. He also wanted a bench for his guests to use for putting on their shoes. This was only one of the designs I did for him. This is the one that got built.



Part of the design criteria was to make hide the plumbing under the sink while making it readily accessible if the need arises. I came up with the idea of a removable panel with a glass shelf in front on which he could display another piece of his art work. To show this, I used a photogrpah of one of his pieces to make a component that could sit on the shelf.


This component would have been very time consuming to make in 3D and I only had a single photograph of it to work from. To save some time I just made a flat component that always faces the camera.



Here's how I made the component. For this example I found a royalty-free image of a bust of Abraham Lincoln. The image was a JPG file of the bust on a black background but for the process I used, I needed a PNG file with a transparent background. I opened the image in an image editor, selected the background and made it transparent. Then I saved the file as a PNG.



Now we're off to SketchUp. Under the File menu I went to Import. I chose PNG for the file type and on the right selected Use as image.



After selecting the image, I clicked at the origin and dragged out the image on the ground plane. The dimensions aren't all that important at this stage but big is good. Before moving on to the next steps I saved the SketchUp file.



With the image selected, I started a plugin called Image Trimmer*. It runs for a few moments doing its magic and then things look like the above image. I chose 'Yes' to make the image stand up. Note that the plugin would have run even faster if I had cropped the image more tightly.



The component is shown standing up and there are more questions to answer. I chose 'Yes' to "Flatten" the texture so it will receive shadows...



...'No' to deleting the original image because I still need it...



...'Yes' to delete the temporary files the plugin generates...



...and 'OK' to simplifying the trimmed image. A factor of 2.0 is almost always good. Notice how ragged the edges are in the image above.



After simplifying the edges are smoothed out considerably. The component looks like a silhouette in the above images because I was working in the Monochrome face style. The material is applied to the face in the component, however. The component is also too large at this stage.


I exploded the component and scaled the model down to the desired height.



With it all selected I hit the 'G' key to Create Component. I gave it a name and then ticked the box for "Always face camera" and made sure "Shadows face sun" was also ticked. Then I hit the Enter key to finish creating the component.


I saved the component out to another local component library, see Save Components for Future Use for details on that. Now it is available to use in other models.



Here it is on Steve Latta's Serpentine Sideboard. No matter where the camera is positioned, the bust will always face it.


Now, you can do this sort of thing without using a plugin although the plugin is generally faster. To do it the manual way, import the image as I did, above, using it as an image. Then use the various drawing tools, Line, Arc and Freehand to trace around the object. Don't try to get every last detail. It'll make the file size larger and make the component harder to handle. After you you've completed the tracing and formed a loop you will have a face inside. You can select that face and delete it.


Next, select the image, right click and choose Explode. The image and the traced edges will now be combined. You can delete the outer edges leaving just the traced shape. Stand it up if it isn't already upright, scale it as needed and the create the component as above.


More woodworking tips & plans here

Making a One Piece Box on the Router Table

Making boxes with the router is argueably one of the most fun things you can do with a router table. Not only that, you get to turn out objects that almost everybody loves and can use ... and it makes you look great. The other thing with boxes on the router table is by taking a design like this and modifying the sizes a little bit, you can make a whole range of different sizes, with or without hinged tops and all sorts of different and unique add-ons. Boxes are one of the most popular items for many people because they look great and are functional. They can be varied in so many different ways, different woods, contrasting woods, stains and dyes, final finishes, glossy, satin, matte, or by making them from laminated veneer woods and highlighting with contrasting wood, the variables are endless.

In this article we are making what we call the One Piece Box because it can be made from on piece of wood. The finished box is 4 inches square and if you  can make it either with a routed lift off top as shown in the video, or you can leave the top on and cut it off on your table saw, then use hinges to open the lid. To make the 4 inch by 4 inch box, you need to start off with a board that is at least 26 inches long and 4 inches wide, by three-eighths of and inch thick.

In terms of tools, you will need a router and router table with a fence and you will also need a rabbeting bit that can be set for 3/8" (this is normally done by selecting the correct bearing on top) and you will need a spiral bit, you can use a 1/4" but will find that a 3/8" spiral bit is slightly more forgiving when it comes to cutting the top off the box. The 1/4" will work fine, just make sure you are absolutely correct with your cuts.

Making the Sides
The first thing that needs to be done in making the boxes is to cut all the sides the correct dimensions from your stock wood.
It is very wise to label all these sides AS YOU CUT THEM, especially for your first few times. You will need ...
2 - Box top/bottom, one of each and they are 4" x 4"
2 - Box "sides" 4" x 3 5/8"  (label as "S" for sides)
2 - Box "ends" 3 5/8" x 3 5/8"  (Label as "E" for ends)

Cutting the Rabbets
The first bit that needs to be installed in your router is the rabbet bit with a 3/8 bearing installed. The bit needs to be set to cut horizontally into your wood by 3/8" and to a depth of half your wood, which will be 3/16". If you can accurately measure the height of your bit above the router table that  will work, if you can't measure it you wiill need to use make some test cuts on scrap wood to make sure the bit is cutting through the middle of the thickness of your box  sides. To check the height, make a short 1/4" cut on one side of scrap wood, then flip the wood over and make another cut at the same corner from the other side, If there is any wood left between the cuts, the depth is too shallow and needs to be made deeper. If there is no wood between the cuts, the cut may be too deep. An ideal test cut should show just a "feather" of wood between the test cuts.

In the above photo, the black marking around some of the box pices is where the rabbet cuts need to be made.

Once your rebate bit is set to the correct height and the correct width you can go ahead and make the rabbet cuts. You will see from the image that the box top and bottom receive rebate cuts on all sides, the "Sides" of the box pieces which will be against the grain, or along the 3 5/8" side of the wood.

Routing the Dado
The final cut you need to make is to route a dado along all the inside surfaces of the box sides and ends (of course the top and bottom are not routed for this step). Install your spiral bit into your router and set the depth for 3/16" in height above the router table. The distance of the spiral bit from your router fence is up to you, but usually that distance is between 1" and 1 1/2". The next step now is to route a goove across the inside surfaces of both box ends and sides. For this step you will normally be routing WITH THE GRAIN of the wood.

Gluing
After dry fitting all the sides of the box, the next step is to glue them together. In most cases you will have been routing across the grain of wood so in order to get a good fit, you may need to sand off any wood bits adjacent to the rebate cuts to ensure that the wood seats properly when you glue.
IMPORTANT - Now is the time to either mark the outside surface of one of your box sides or to measure the distance of where your outside dado cut will need to be. DON'T forget to make sure to add the extra thickness of the lid if you are measuring.
No special glue is require, most carpenters yellow (PVA) glues will work fine. You can use clamps if you have appropriate clamps or you can simply use GOOD QUALITY painters masking tape (the blue or green qualities are best). Glue up all sides, use a bit of hand pressure and fold the tape over the edges on all sides and that should be enough but checking for squareness is recommended.

Finishing
It is recommended that once the box glue is dry and hard, NOW is the ideal time to make some finishing touches. Many people like to round over the side and top edges of the box. This is best done BEFORE the lid is cut off, as is any sanding of the box. Once the lid is cut off it is harder to do a nice job of rounding corners and sanding.

Cutting the Top Off
The final and most exciting step of making One Piece Boxes is to cut the top off. This is also done using your spiral bit, which needs to be set at 3/16" above the router table. The distance between the spiral bit and the router fence needs to be equal to just below where the inside dado cuts are on the inside of the box. This is very important.

BEFORE you begin the cut, you will also need "shims" that will need to be secured, with painters tape, after each cut you make. This will help to ensure the box lid and bottom are secured for a nice clean cut. The shims should be 3 inches long and the same thickness as your spiral cutter or dado slot.
Go ahead now and cut the top off the box and behold the magic of woodworking.

Making the Base
If you are also going to make a base for the box, as shown in the video, you will need a 5 inch by 5 inch piece of wood that is three quarters of an inch thick. For this setup you will need an "Ogee" or "Roman Ogee" bit for your router. To set the height of the bit, you may need to make some test cuts but the final cut should be one where the top of the base is rounded over and "flows" down the side of the base.

Once the sides of the base have been cut, the final cut is made by lowering the Ogee bit in the router table. This final cut is the cut that makes the base plate appear as though it has 4 separate legs. To make this cut you will need to measure a distance of about 1" on either side of the centre of the Ogee bit and mark the place on the fence with some temporary painters tape; These marks will be used as the start and stop points.
The Ogee bit should be set low enough to make an inside or cove cut of about  1/4".  When making the final cut on the stand, it needs to be face up. Each of the 4 ends of the base need to be aligned with the stop line on the fence at a point where, when the router is turned on, the base can be eased into this point the routed from left to right (as you should always do with a router in a router table) and stopping the cut when the trailing edge of the base meets the stop line on the router fence. This needs to be done on all for edges of the base.

The photo above shows some of variations in boxes, Left is a 4" x 4" x 6" box made from mahogany veneer, Center is another 4' x 4" x 6" box made from Holly wood with a solid figured maple top, Right is a 4' x 4" x 8" box made from veneered birdseye maple

Finishing
One last cut that some like to make on these types of boxes is to use a small "Vee" bit to route the actual outside edge where the lid meets the bottom of the box. If the contact points between your lid and the bottom of your box are ragged or there is some wood tear out, this might be an option that will make your box look better.
At this point the box and base are completed. After final sanding select the stain or dye you want, if any and of course the final finish you want on the box. Tung oil, in most cases makes and excellent and easy to apply finish, but shellac, varnish and various other woodworking oil finishes will also work well.

Remember  !!!!!!!!
The first box you make may not always turn out the way you expected. There are many elements at play in the project, the type of wood, finishing, making exact cuts in the wood etc. The best way to make good quality boxes is to practice by making a few of them. Each time you make another you will get better and better, and the boxes that don't turn out to be your best are still usable for many other things, so they don't go to waste, they are functional practice pieces.

Copyright - Colin Knecht
Woodworkweb.com



busy

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Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Spring Clamps

Spring ClampAs a woodworker, you know that you can never have enough clamps in your woodshop. In many cases, clamps can be expensive, which especially affects woodworkers on a budget. A quality bar clamp can run $30-40 each, and if you need ten or twenty clamps for a project, you're looking at quite an expense.

For some tasks, there are inexpensive clamping alternatives that can be used where a quantity of clamps are required. Spring clamps may be such an option. Spring clamps are inexpensive (I found them in bargain bins at hardware stores for as little as $1 each), and in quantity, can be quite effective. They're certainly not appropriate for every clamping task, and for some jobs, I would highly recommend against using them, but for some basic tasks, they're a great alternative.


Learn the benefits of using Spring Clamps, as well as some instances where you shouldn't use them. Having a handful of the right type of spring clamps on hand can be a real time-saver, and can make some woodworking tasks much easier than traditional clamps.


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Ridgid R3030 One-Handed Reciprocating Saw Review

Ridgid R3030 One-Handed Reciprocating SawThe first reciprocating saws hit the market in the 1950's and remodeling projects were never the same. This one tool makes demolition so much faster than using hammers, crow bars and hand saws.

The one drawback to the reciprocating saw has been that they have traditionally been a workhorse, one-size fits all type of tool that requires two hands to operate. For some tasks, a two-handed tool designed for big jobs was too cumbersome, particularly for contractors who need to work in tight spaces.


Ridgid has addressed this limitation with the Ridgid R3030 One-Handed Reciprocating Saw. This lightweight, one-handed reciprocating saw is perfectly suited for smaller jobs and tight spaces, and even has some really thoughtful features that will be ideally suited for such tasks. Learn all about this smaller reciprocating saw in this Woodworking Tool Review.


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Impact Drivers

Impact DriverMechanics have known the advantages of impact drivers for many years, particularly when changing tires. The pneumatic impact driver made the task of removing and installing lug nuts lightning fast and nearly effortless.

A few short years ago, this technology was adapted to cordless drills. The advantages of using an impact driver for drilling and driving screws is obvious once you've tried one.


Learn how using an impact driver can not only take over many tasks normally reserved for the cordless drill, but also how the impact driver can actually be safer and far more versatile than your trusty cordless drill.


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Learn the Basics of Woodturning

Woodturning a SpindleOne increasingly popular aspect of woodworkingis woodturning. Woodturning is comparatively safe, can be done comfortably by people of nearly any age, and a little practice can yield some remarkable results.

But why is it so popular? Why do so many people have an interest in woodturning but no interest in traditional fine woodworking?


Perhaps it's because of the variety of popular projects that can be turned. There's an entire sub-culture of woodturners who only turn out pens, made out of rare wood species, colorful acrylics or even exotic materials (I saw an entry in a woodturning catalog recently where one could fashion a pen by turning snakeskin).


Other popular turned items include bottle stoppers, bowls of countless sizes and shapes, and of course, spindle items such as bed posts, table legs or balusters and finials.


No matter what type of woodturning project one should endeavor to accomplish, the basic techniques employed by the woodturners are nearly identical. If you're interested in learning how to begin with this extremely satisfying aspect of woodworking, learn the basics in Woodturning 101. Once you understand and have mastered the basics (with a good bit of practice), you'll be ready to venture off into all kinds of interesting woodturning projects.


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Band Saw Buying Tips

Band SawThe band saw is likely safest and most accurate tool to use when woodworking plans call for precise, curved cuts. For instance, following are a variety of free woodworking plans that require curved cuts, perfect for the band saw:

Build a Clay Pot Hanger

Modular Wine Rack Plans

Classic Wooden Toolbox

Build a Knick-Knack Shelf

Oak Book Stand

If you need to buy a band saw, these Band Saw Buying Tips can help you determine how to buy the perfect band saw for your needs.

(c) 2012 Chris Baylor licensed to About.com, Inc.

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Build Your Own Super-Strong Shelves

Utility ShelvesWhen building a shelving unit or bookshelf that will need to hold a great deal of weight (for instance, a bookcase that holds a series of very heavy books like law books or a set of encyclopedias), a single 3/4" shelf constructed out of plywood or a single 1x12 board will likely be prone to sagging over time. Fortunately, if you plan ahead for dealing with such weight, there are a couple of simple solutions to prevent the problem.

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Monday, April 16, 2012

Save $20 on Porter-Cable Tools

Porter-Cable RouterI don't often write about sales promotions, but this one caught my eye and I felt compelled to pass it along.

Tool King is having a Porter-Cable sale! You can get $20 off on Porter-Cable tools (on orders of $100 or more, excluding reconditioned products). The offer is valid in the month of April only, so don't wait. Visit Tool King to Save $20 on Porter-Cable Tools.


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Harrison's Toybox

This is a toybox I made for my friends’ son’s birthday. He is 2. It’s my biggest project to date, and I’m really happy with how it turned out.


It’s almost an exact replica of CDavy’s toybox – thanks for the inspiration and extra details about yours!
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/44720


It’s made mostly out of 3/4” birch ply. The nailers (not visible, the trim pieces and the lid are made of poplar. The lid is about 14” wide, so I glued up two poplar boards to make it. The lid is supported with a stainless piano hinge and two toy box lid supports from Rockler.


It’s assembled with simple butt-joints that are glued, brad nailed, and screwed. I was “between” table saws when I made this, so it was done with a circular saw and a guide. The moulding and letters were put on with brads.


I am hoping to get some better pictures once it’s in its final location.


Thanks for looking.

-- Andrew - Albany. NY


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Gate Fence for my Jack Russells

Gate Fence for my Jack Russells


Recently we moved to a new house with a nice back yard, but with easy access for my two dogs to run out into the street. So the first project was to build a gate fence in front of the drive way to prevent them from running away.


Jack Russells are not tall dogs so the high of the fence is about 90cm (3 feet) from the ground. The fence is split in two parts 2m (79”) long each and one part opens as a gate.


Made out of pine wood and coated with a undercoat all weather sealer and two coats of brown tinted varnish.
The vertical pieces are 10cm (4”) apart so my dogs have a nice view outside when the cars are not parked in front of it.


Two long gate hinges and a 3” caster allows the gate to open smoothly pivoting on two 2×4 lumber stock, and a sliding lock keeps it safe from opening.


Both parts of the fence are elevated to prevent the wood from soaking in water.


Jennifer & Esther are two happy dogs now :)

-- I am not so rich to buy cheap tools.


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colobolo and African Blackwood Wedding flutes

They were made for my son’s wedding. He never looks at this site, so I should be safe. He gets married on the 21st in MI. Cocobolo flutes with African blackwood stems and cocobolo bottoms. They stand 9” tall with the widest point at 2.5”. The tops are 3/32 thick…they would have been thicker, but those darn catches when you get near the bottom change a few things :) Was going to make a box for them, but got half way done and my heart and dimensions just weren’t into it, so I went to the round stuff. They are gorgeous from my point of view. Finshed with EEE and Mylands friction polish.. I figure the wood itself is oily enough, they’ll always have a sheen. Hope you like.


Scott


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His and Hers Wine Glasses

Redheart and Heckaffino.


The Wife: “How do you clean these?”
Me: “Very carefully.”

-- I'm not as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I ever was.


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stain glass light with door bell in the top.

I want to put more cherry strips to hide the door bell better. (some day)


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Sunday, April 15, 2012

Small Tool Board/ French Cleat

I decided to finally get around to creating a dedicated space for some of my hand tools that require special attention ! Eventually I intend to build a wall tool cabinet much like You see here on L J’s, but this board was something quick and easy. I have always liked the French Cleat design for wall mounting storage, but when I started My workshop the walls were already covered in Pegboard . Don’t get Me wrong,pegboard is very useful in some ways but the French Cleat system IMO offers more versatility. This small tool board is deigned with the FC system and will have to suffice for now ! I do really like the quick and simple fixtures that can be made and used to store various tools. With rare earth mags, lace, pegs and scrap materials to make tool caddy’s, You can easily hang tools securely and the best part about the system is the adjustability it offers, adding new tools will be no problem. Well it isn’t a permanent fixture but it is getting the job done for now. Thanks for taking a look and stay safe…......ROB


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Wedding card box

I was asked by a family member to make a wedding card box. This is the design that I came up with. It features a basket weave pattern carved in pine using a CarveWright machine. The sides are mitered and joined with biscuits. The top edge of the sides are rabbeted and the top panel dropped into place. The bottom is Baltic birch, secured with a slot on one end and a lock on the other. Finish is clear satin lacquer.



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Treasure Chest / Toy Box

On his first visit to Disney this Febuary My Grandson fell in love with the Pirate Jack Sparrow charactor and everything Pirates, so for his birthday I thought it oppropriate to design/build him a chest for his “LUTE” and wordly possessions (i.e. toys and such) ! The design of the box is glue and joint construction and made with Oak Ply and Ebonized Poplar. It features rope handles and a child safe lid support,and “pirate” accents that he can remove as he grows up and out of this phase( as they often do !) The project was some what difficult because of the two tone finishing,but worth it in the long run. It turned out as expected and He was thrilled with the end results which made it all worth the effort ! Thanks for taking a look and as always be safe !..........ROB


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Roubo iPad Stand

I saw the Roubo Bookstand and wanted to build it. My wife’s birthday was upcoming, so I decided to use her birthday as an excuse to build it (as her birthday present). The only problem is: my wife doesn’t like to read books. So… I still built it for her birthday… only she also got an iPad 2 thrown in with it for her birthday present. I guess its an expensive way to make it useful to her, but hey, I got to build it and I have an extremely happy wife that likes to use it with her new iPad 2.


All in all, it took me about 6 hours to build and finish it (almost entirely using handtools). It’s made from one piece of mahogany 15” x 7.5” x 3/4”. I tried to keep the hinge round; I didn’t like the way the straight 45 degree hinges looked. I finished it with a coat of Teak Oil. Thanks to Roy Underhill (the Roubo Bookstand was a recent episode of the Woodwright’s Shop) for the inspiration.


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Art Nouveau

The graceful curving strip of bubinga lends an Art Nouveau feel to this board.
I like how this one came out and will make a few more with different woods to see how the contrasts work.

This will be posted on Winefinity, a specialty wine accented website owned by my wife and her sister. They make some really cool pieces and needed some boards to fill out there offering.

Its about 7 1/2” x 17 1/2×1/2” thick with a full round edge.
The closeups show a more accurate view of the colors and the irritating inclusions and gaps. Arghhh!!

Maple,walnut,bubinga and purpleheart.
Coated with Ben-Gay sport creme.

Thanks for looking,
Andy

-- www.artboxesbyandy.com

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Fretwork Wheelbarrow

The Spring 2012 issue of Scroll Saw magazine has a pattern titled Fretwork Wheelbarrow.


They looked kind of neat, so I made two of them.


It takes some time and patience to scroll saw the veins in the leafs on the patterns.


All of the ladies that have seen the completed wheelbarrows really like them. They can put flowers, candy, etc in the wheelbarrow.


For more details on how I made these, see my web site.


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Saturday, April 14, 2012

My Collection of Wands

My collection of wands:
Hazel for white magic
Wenge wrapped with silk for money spells
Zebrawood for high power stuff like Lightning Bolt
Oak wrapped with leather for strength
Cherry wood for general purpose enchanting

-- I'm not as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I ever was.


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New Pens with iPad Stylus

These are the first Stylus pens I have made. They will be going to my wife and each of my parents, since they are the iPad users in the family.


Each of these are Gold Sierra/Stylus pens.


First: Mesquite, with a little hint of sap wood.


Second: Wisteria, from my parents back yard. I will let my Mom and Dad argue over who gets this pen.


Third: Drift Wood, species unknown. Filled the crack with micro glitter and CA. The wood has a lot of color, from ash gray to bright yellow-orange. That is the remaining piece of original drift wood laying in front of the pen. I received this piece of drift wood from an IAP member in trade a couple years ago.


All have a 6-8 coats of CA, polished to 12000 micromesh and buffed to a nice gloss.


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Workbench

If you see the before picture of my workshop, you will understand that this is a vast improvement over what was there before.


However, having read about other workbenches, I see a lot of changes I would make/will make in future workbenches.


So, it’s not fancy, and definitely not pretty, but serviceable, and, quite frankly, too darn heavy to move out now.


The legs are 4×4 posts, most of the rest of the framing is 2×4s (cleaning up the edges of the 2×4s is one of the things I’d do differently).


The top has a sub-base of 2×6s, with 3/4 inch plywood over that.


It’s pretty much all bolted together with lag screws.


The bench vise is from Rockler. Pretty happy with it so far.

What would I do differently? make it a little bit shorterclean up the edges of the framing for better fitbury the vise in the tabletopmake sure the dog hole next to the vise isn’t right over the vise screw (can’t believe I missed that one!)chamfer the edges of the top before installing the vise

But, overall, I’m OK with it – it’s early days yet; and, again, all made with just a jigsaw, circular saw, cordless drill and hand tools.


Finally – some constructive criticism would be most welcome – it will help me on the next one to not be this guy:


(To self): “Well, there it is. Looks pretty darn good!”
examines it a little more closely
“Man, why did I do that! That was dumb! Well, to much trouble to fix now”

-- Chris, Minneapolis


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Bangko pang Pyano (Piano Bench)

Hi Guys, I designed this simple Piano bench for a good friend. The seat is made from ipil while the casing and the legs are of Ssaplungan. The stretchers are kamagong (ebony).


My apologies….I haven’t been posting much lately since I’ve been working on some major pieces for my November exhibit in Manila culminating my 30th year in the designing/woodworking industry. In as much as I love sharing my latest works with you guys, I will be posting my new creations one by one after I’ve unveiled it to the public. I pray you all have a fine weekend. God bless!


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Thursday, April 12, 2012

Walnut and curly maple box

The second of two walnut boxes that were made at the same time. Walnut box, book-matched curly maple for lid panel. Curly maple also for lid lift. Maple splines. The lid has a 1/4 round-over.


I made a trip to Lee Valley and picked up Brusso hinges, very worth it. Cut hinge mortises with router and jig I made, and used a temple guide on the router for the first time. They were very cheap and off center and almost messed up the alignment of the lid and box.


I finished the box with Watco danish oil and Minwax paste wax. After a couple of soakings I wet sanded with 400, 600, and 1500 grit. Compared to my previous walnut box, much more of the pores were filled during wet sanding and very few spots show white where wax was applied.


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Twin flat bed with drawers

I built this project because after wasting a half-a-tank of gas and mentally exhausting our search for a quality twin bed for a 9 yr old, we decided that we did not want to pay $200+ for a particle board piece of scrap furniture for a bed. So, a trip to Menards, 2-sheets of finished pine plywood, a few 2×4’s and some 1×4’s resulted in a fun-filled project for my two sons and I. I spent less than $100, a full Saturday and a new mattress that resulted in a pretty nice result. Benefits are the 3 additional drawers and a much sturdier/solid bed that will certainly last until he outgrows it (which will be soon I am sure). I also made it in 4-pieces. The two center pieces that hold the mattress, which can seperate for easy moving. And then the headboard and footboard that are detachable by way of 3/8” bolts and wood inserts. Enjoy-


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Pine Ribbon

This ribbon turning is made from 128 pcs. of Pine. It is 24” tall x 18” wide. About 32 hours to in the making.
Made from 100% recycled wood.


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for when she is sixteen

this is a chest made three years ago made from 100% ash right down to the dowels in the hinges. has a curved lid with draws that raise with the lid. I entered it into one of lincolnshires shows where it won the best in class and best in show . Well i,m proud of myself anyway. And my daughter polishes it regular until she is sixteen probably stop doing it when its hers . kids hey


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Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Segmented Bowl

Well, after 40 cutting boards, a segmented bowl seemed like the next logical step in my woodworking journey.


Watched the Malcom Tibbet’s video collection (Fantastic!!) and figured,...... an easy bowl like this should be within the realm of possibility. Turns out, really not that difficult but it is a bit time consuming, especially with all the glue up’s of the rings. Overall, I like how this came out and plan to do more.


This bowl is about 8 1/5 tall and 7 inches wide. Walnut, cherry and padauck. 10 coats of spray laquer.


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Irrritating plastic thing-a-ma-jig is gone!

Both Jen and I have been frustrated with this plastic laundry hamper (the first picture). You can see why:-) I’ve finally had some time to replace it. It may not be fine wood working but it sure will be nice not to have to duct tape those stupid plastic tubes anymore! I used some remnant cedar pieces for the corners and maple dowel from our local lumber yard. I used BLO for the ‘finish’ but more as an experiment as I don’t think this needs a fine finish.


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Bed for my little Princess

My daughter turned 3 years old last March and needed a new bed, do I decided to build one for her that can last for years to come.


This is my second project, I started last November (2011) doing woodworking as a hobby, this one was maybe a little ambitious for my short/no experience building furniture and no plans but I decided to do it anyways and I think it turned very well..


My inspiration was Fillmore bedroom set from PT Kids Some Modifications I made to the nightstand I think make it look better than the original.


I used poplar and MDF to build the bedroom set.


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Stanley Transitional needs a cherry body.

A Stanley #27 with a new Cherry body. Knob and tote are original. All other parts are original.


Sharpened with a slight camber for a jack.


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This Flight Tonight

I had a strange dream. It was February 1, 2003, I was aboard the Space Shuttle. Everything was going well. We were about to re-enter the Earth’s atmosphere, transiting from the black night of space into the blue skies . A song entered my head, This Flight Tonight by Joni Mitchell ( although the version I heard was the cover by Nazareth). I sensed impending danger. I couldn’t move or speak. Things started to go wrong. I was on the ground. Watching a small collection of tight packed fireballs streaking across the sky. I wept. Seven brave people had not made it back, not this time.


This box is dedicated to the memory of the crew of Space Shuttle Columbia, mission, STS-107, its 28th, which burnt up on re-entry due to damage to some of its heat resistant tiling. They were:


Commander: Rick D. Husband
Pilot: William C. McCool
Payload Commander: Michael P. Anderson
Payload Specialist: Ilan Ramon
Mission Specialist: Kalpana Chawla
Mission Specialist: David M. Brown
Mission Specialist: Laurel Clark


I will certainly never forget them.


The box is made of Luan, Padauk, Yew, Pau Amarello, Sycamore and a small patch of Ebony (representing the damage sustained to the shuttle), The coloured bands are those seen, due to heat, on objects entering our atmosphere at speed. The main box is 166mm (long side) x 101mm (rear) x 50mm high. The rear fin, which is the handle to remove the drop-in lid, is another 35mm high. Glues were PVA and CA and the finish Spray satin Acrylic. The last shot shows the box as I envisioned it as I designed it, representing re-entry. Please, no comments about the bolt, I can’t use Photoshop and I’d rather it wasn’t there.


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Time for walnut

This weekend I dedicated my time to a log of walnut. I made ??two bowls: One natural edge end one shaped fruit bowl. Hope you enjoy.


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Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Wine Bottle Holders

Decided Friday to make some presents for our family Easter gathering. I got the design online somewhere. Can’t remember exactly where. I made a template so I could make more for Christmas. The plan called for a 35 degree angle on the bottom and it worked well. Since I don’t have a table saw I used the band saw which was a little tedious but made the cut pretty smooth. I used flame birch, zebrawood and bloodwood. I finished them with Bulls Eye shellac.


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The Binaca Cannon

This is a project that I slapped together at least 10 years ago.


This is a Binaca Cannon – a toy cannon that shoots a 35mm film canister over 25 feet with a single spray of Binaca Breath Spray!


The first picture I was able to cut/paste from a small video I have of a test firing. See link below for the the entire video.


It’s pretty simple to make – all you need is a Grill Starter, a 35mm Film Canister and some scrap pieces of wood. Oh yeah – and a canister of Binaca Breath Spray for fuel.


You run a wire onto the “muzzle” end and through the lid – the other end is connected to the starter (see pics 3 & 4). Spread out the wire ends so when you click the starter you get a nice, large spark across the wires. Then all you do is direct a quick squirt of spray into the canister and quickly place it onto the lid tightly.


Press the button and POP! A nice ball of fire and a fresh smelling room – minty!!!


For anyone wondering about the sound, here's a link to a video I shot of a test firing.


Now, be careful out there – don’t go blowing any fingers off! Not that it has that kind of power, but I thought I should put a warning out. ;-)


Enjoy!


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Another Bud Vase

As the title says this is just another bud vase, this one is made from oak. Let me know what you think, bad or good, comment bellow!

-- Alex - http://www.thiswoodwork.com/

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tea or baccy box

well this box i made because i had a little bowl that was no use nor ornament to anyone so i tried to give it a purpose in life hence the box. that maybe is like the bowl now just takes up more room. made from ash and birch on the inside. finished in bri-wax At least it kept me out of trouble for a couple of hours.


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Project without a name !!

LJ’s


I’ve been walking around with this idea for some time now. I decided to make a rather smaller version than the one in my head and see how it turns out. I’m starting on number 2 next week !!!


It’s about 500mm high.


I don’t know a proper name for this project : Any suggestions ?


This one will be sold , the money goes to a charity named KIKA.


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Office Supplies

I made this riser and “inbox” for my office. The riser is made from walnut and poplar. It is 5 1/2 inches tall, 23 inches wide and 12 inches deep. The inbox is made from walnut and birch plywood.


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Monday, April 9, 2012

my first ever themed bar

this was my first themed project….done quite awhile ago…its all oak with a light oak stain (main) and early american stain (i believe) on the darker ….turned out well for my first run at it.


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one of my first

The wood comes of a pallet i found which is spalted beech. the inside is sapele.first time I tried quadrant hinges. not keen on them as I prefer the rustic look. also first time I made pens and letter opener which are spalted beech as well. sold the lathe soon after wards. as i did not enjoy it as much as i thought. not my forte.


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Sunday, April 8, 2012

I Can Do That: Message Center

Milk & eggs. A message center in the kitchen is handy and useful for any family. While you’re at it, make one for the shop, too!


A low-tech solution for a family on the go.


By Steve Shanesy
Pages: 26-27


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The kitchen is the crossroads for today’s busy family. And while we have high-tech gadgets to text messages, take notes and keep a calendar, I’ve found a kitchen message board has helped to keep my family organized for 30 years. Three decades ago, I made several message centers as gifts and can report that some are still in use – a testament to their utility.


My concession to “high-tech” materials and woodworking methods for this updated version are a dry-erase writing surface instead of chalkboard, and pocket screws instead of dowel joints. Both make an easy project even easier.


And as with all I Can Do That projects, the materials come from your local home center and the tools used are all from the modest I Can Do That kit.


Round up Your Materials
I found 1 / 8"-thick dry-erase board in the paneling section of the store. It was offered in 32" x 48" for just more than $10. That’s worth mentioning because you could make two message boards from this one piece of dry-erase board. The other materials needed, an 8' length of 1x2 pine and an 8' length of half-round pine moulding, came to another $7. If you buy one more length of 1x2, you’ll have enough material to make two message boards with a total outlay of about $28.


Take your time and select your 1x2 pine carefully. Look for pieces that have few large or loose knots (or better yet, none). If there are knots, you can cut around them and get clear workpieces. Also, check that the wood is reasonably straight and flat.


The Importance of Square
In woodworking, the principle of “square” is fundamental to satisfactory results. Slight deviations, even one degree, can play havoc with your results and leave a twisted mess. Keep this principle in mind while building. Use your combination square to check the setup of your miter saw and circular saw. Check your 1x2 pine. Are the faces and edges square? Make sure your crosscuts are square to both the width and thickness of your workpieces.Get in the habit of “working square” and your projects will have fewer problems.


Cut Parts to Size
Cut the two vertical pieces, called stiles, to length using your miter saw. If you’re starting from the end of the board as it came from the store, first trim off the end. Cut the top horizontal piece (the rail). Cut the bottom piece as well. Again, make sure your cuts are square.

Square is a must. In any project, parts must be square or problems will arise. Use a combination square to check all perpendicular faces.


You can arrange these pieces and verify that your dimensions are accurate. Then go ahead and cut the dry-erase board. To make this cut, use a circular saw and a straightedge jig to guide the saw (more information on this jig is available in the I Can Do That manual, which is free online at PopularWoodworking.com/ICanDoThat). For support, set up a pair of sawhorses and place a couple plywood strips across the horses to support the dry-erase board. Mark the panel to width and set the jig so the saw cuts to the mark. Now clamp the jig to the plywood strips and check to be sure nothing has moved. Set your depth of cut so you barely cut into the plywood strips, then make your cut. Repeat the process to cut the panel to length.


Assemble the Frame
The upper rail is joined to the stiles using two pocket screws at each joint. Remember, the rail goes between the stiles. After checking the drill depth on your pockethole jig, space the pocket holes in about 1/2" from the edge of your 1x2 and drill them. When done, screw the three parts together. Keep the top edge of the stiles flush to the top edge of the rail.

Cut it straight. Use a straightedge guide with your circular saw to guarantee an accurate, straight cut. You’ll use this jig over and over in future projects.


The bottom is screwed on to the ends of the stiles from below, with one #8 x 1 -5/8" screw at each side. Drill and countersink a hole that’s 1-1/4" in from the ends and 5/16" in from the back edge. Now clamp your three-sided frame upside-down in your Workmate. Position the bottom piece and check that it overhangs the outside edge of the stiles 1/2" on each side. Drill a pilot hole in the end grain of the stile so the part doesn’t split when screwed. To mark the hole location, push the point of a screw though the bottom holes to make a mark, then drill the hole. Set the bottom in place and screw it to the frame.


Now remove the bottom piece because there’s a bit more work on the three-sided frame. Use your router and a 1/4" roundover bit to ease the frame’s edges. Rout this profile on all long edges on the face side of the frame. Clamp the work to the bench while routing and move the clamps as needed. On my router setup, the bottom of the bit was above the surface of the benchtop.


The half-round moulding is glued to the top surface of the bottom piece; it keeps your markers and eraser from falling off the ledge. Carefully cut the moulding to the same length as your bottom piece. Apply glue to the moulding and lightly clamp for 45 minutes. Wipe off any glue squeeze-out with a wet rag. After the glue has set, reattach the bottom to the frame.

Two screws in the corner pocket. You can fi t two pocket screws in each corner of the stileto- rail joints. Snug the screws tight – but be gentle because pine is soft.


Before screwing the dry-erase board to the frame, sand and finish the pine. I used a random-orbit sander and #120-, then #150-grit sandpaper. Next, I sprayed a clear lacquer finish from an aerosol can. Spray only in a well-ventilated space and away from open flames – think water heater and furnace!


The dry-erase board is easily attached to the back of the frame with countersunk flat-head screws. When you decide where you want to install your message board, use picture hanging hardware.


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Saturday, April 7, 2012

I Can Do That: Hanging Shelves

Get a period look with big box materials.


by Megan Fitzpatrick
pages 23-23


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The inspiration for this small hanging set of shelves is a late 18th- to early 19th-century (circa 1775-1825) English dovetailed version in oak with a dark finish. I wanted to replicate the look as much as possible using the I Can Do That tool set and big-box stock, so I adjusted the dimensions to fit dimensional lumber, and, after the construction was done, sanded the edges heavily to impart a well-worn look. I then applied a somewhat distressed finish (more on that later).

Perfect circles. If you can’t find a compass, dividers work just fine for marking out circles – and the resulting tool marks add an air of period flair.


Lumber Choices
The inspiration project is 8" wide and appears to be made of stock slightly thicker than 1/4". But at the big box store, the thickness choices are 1/4" and 1/2", and I dithered between 4"-wide and 6"-wide stock.


Because I knew I’d be using nails rather than dovetails for the box’s joints, I opted for 1/2" stock to allow for a bit of forgiveness for slightly off-kilter drilling. And, I decided on the 4"-wide nominal lumber (which, as you know, is actually 3-1/2" wide) because 5-1/2" wide (the 6" nominal stock) simply looked too bucky. So, after crosscutting and gluing up two 19"-long pieces, the overall width of my back piece ended up 7" wide.


Add Curves
After the glue on the back dries, use the glue line as your centerline, and set your dividers (basically, a compass without a pencil) to a 7/8" radius, then scribe a circle at the center top of the back.


Then, measure down 4-1/2" from the top edge and mark a pencil line across the width. At either edge, that line locates the terminus of the arcs.


Now measure down 1-1/2" from that line, and at 7/8" to either side of the centerline, make a pencil mark.


Reset your compass or dividers to a 4-1/2" radius, set the point on one of those marks, then strike the arc from the bottom of the small circle to the edge of your back; repeat on the other side of the centerline. (This is not exact; please your eye.)


Use your jigsaw to cut the curves. Typically, we recommend the Bosch X-tra Clean for Wood blades, and I used that blade to cut the large arcs on either side. But when it came time to cut the tight circle at the top, I switched to the narrowest blade I could find, with lots of fine teeth, and cut slowly to overcome blade deflection. Once all the curves are cut, smooth them as needed with sandpaper.

Clamp for success. While you could try to hold adjacent pieces in place while you drill pilot holes, it’s much better to clamp everything together first – just be sure to keep the clamp pads clear of where you need to drill!


Five Easy Pieces
The box is simply five pieces of 4" nominal lumber, nailed together. The two sides are each 14-1/2" in length; the three shelves are 5-1/2" in length. Make all the cuts at the miter saw, and set a stop so the two side pieces are exactly the same length. Set the stop again so all three shelves will match one another perfectly. While you can measure and mark each cut individually, why would you? That simply opens the door to error.


It doesn’t matter if the sides are dead-on 19"; it does matter that they match – and the same is true for the shelves. If everything matches and is cut square, clamping up a square box is a breeze. But before assembly, sand all the pieces to #120 grit.


After you’ve clamped the five pieces in position, drill three pilot holes at each joint location, then hammer in 1" finish nails to hold the pieces together. (I recommend checking twice to make sure your clamps are tight before you start to hammer.)


Attach the Back
On the back face of the back piece, center your shelf assembly side to side and flush with the bottom, and trace around the shelf assembly inside and out. (You’ll drill your pilot holes centered between those lines.)


Now flip the back face up, and again center the shelf assembly side to side and flush to the bottom, then clamp the two workpieces together with a clamp or two – make sure to locate the clamps to leave access to drill your pilot holes. Now drill pilot holes through the back and into the shelf assembly. As always, drill pilot holes that are slightly smaller in diameter than the shaft of your nails, and be cognizant that the shelf assembly is only 1/2" thick; there’s little room to wander off course with your drill bit.

Roofing nails. Typically, we use finish nails in our projects, but in this case, I chose roofing nails because their wide, flat heads will help keep the shelves firmly attached to the back for years to come (copper roofing nails are also available – and those would look great on a nice wood with a clear finish).


To attach the back, I used roofing nails to add a little mechanical strength to the joints. Unlike finish nails, roofing nails have wide, flat heads that aren’t easily pulled through – though it’s unlikely anything small enough to fit on these shelves will impart enough weight to cause that problem.


A Fun Finish
To give this piece a well-worn look, I attacked the edges with #80-grit sandpaper, creating a few divots to emulate a century or so of wear and tear, and I softened the crisp 90° angles of the shelves’ butt joints the same way. I also hit the project a few times with the claw end of a hammer, and threw my keys at it repeatedly for a couple minutes.


After slaking my appetite for destruction, I went over the surface with #120-grit sandpaper, and painted on two coats of Benjamin Moore “Bittersweet Chocolate” latex. After the paint was completely dry, I sanded it almost all the way through in a few places. Then, I rubbed on a coat of ebony Briwax, making sure to fill the nail holes and purposeful imperfections I’d created (and perhaps some not-so-purposeful ones, too). PWM


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Easy Shop-made Ellipse Drawing Jig

Categories:: Daily Updates • Editors' Blog • Jigs • Techniques • Woodworking Blogs | | Tags: Ellipse • Ellipse Jig • Steve Shanesy
Steve Shanesy | Nov 04, 2011 | Comments 3
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Our December 2011 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine features a gorgeous table project by designer/craftsman Jeff Miller. His Arch Table includes graceful, sweeping curves in the base. To generate the shape of these curves Jeff uses a shop made ellipse drawing jig. It's easy to make and crazy simple to use.

In the video below you'll see how this jig works and how you can make one. Use the concept to make a jig that actually cuts an elliptical shape by mounting a router on the end of the moving swing arm in place of a pencil. The one in the video would be perfect for a coffee table top.

–Steve Shanesy

Want to find more shop-made woodworking jigs? The editors of Popular Woodworking Magazine have collected the best-ever published in the magazine on a CD "55 Best Shop Made Jigs," available through the magazine's online store, shopwodworking.com – one of the top sources of woodworking books, DVDs, and articles to download.

Steve Shanesy About the Author: Steve Shanesy is a senior editor of Popular Woodworking Magazine.


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Natural Lighting

The project offered here is titled "Wildflower" by author Ken Burton. He felt the look of the dangling pendant light looked like a particular wildflower. So we'll continue that concept and dub the project as one for Natural Lighting. This project is one of 24 unique and original lamp projects offered in 'Crafting Wooden Lamps'.


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Shaker Wall Cupboard

A classic form from the New Lebanon Shaker community is easy to build in a few hours.
By Christopher Schwarz
Page: 48-49


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If you don’t like nails, then perhaps you should turn the page. This small wall cupboard from the New Lebanon Shaker community bristles with them.


The carcase and stiles are nailed together with cut brads. The back is attached with clout nails. And the door is held flat with battens that are secured by clenched nails. I think the nails add to the piece, and, because there are so many different kinds, this project is an excellent introduction to 19th-century cut nails.


Quick Joinery – Quick Results
I’ve built quite a few of these cabinets in the last couple years because they are an excellent way to teach someone traditional joinery and they can be made quickly (my father received one last year that I banged out in a day).


Begin with the carcase. The carcase sides are the only pieces that have real joinery. Cut 3/8"-wide by

Get your bottom on. The thin exterior bottom piece is glued on. Clamp the assembly to your benchtop to help distribute the clamping forces.


3/16"-deep rabbets in the bottom edges of the sides. These receive the interior bottom piece. Cut 3/8"-wide by 3/16"-deep dados for the shelf.
Glue and nail the sides, bottom and shelf together. I used 2d cut headless brads that I set 1/32" below the surface.


True up all the edges of the assembled carcase then fit the two stiles on the front. They hold the carcase square. Glue and nail these in place with 2d cut headless brads and set those.


The thin top and bottom pieces are each attached in an unusual way. First round over the front edge and ends of each piece. The thin bottom is merely glued on to the carcase. Note that the bottom extends 1/4" beyond the back of the carcase, which creates a rabbet for the back. The top is glued and nailed to the stiles and carcase sides (don’t worry – it’s the back of the cupboard that handles all the weight).

Connect the dots. Drill a 1/4" hole for the top of the slot and a 3/8" hole at the bottom. Connect the holes with a coping saw.


Now deal with the back. Cut the ogee shapes on the top of the back piece. Then cut the slot that allows you to hang this cupboard on a peg or nail. Here’s how. Drill a 1/4" hole at the top of the slot. Drill a 3/8" hole at the bottom. Connect the two slots using a coping saw. Attach the back to the carcase using 2d clout nails (no glue).


Keep Your Door Flat
The door is a flat panel of wood. If you don’t apply some cross-grain battens to the back, it will warp in short order.


So fit the door in its opening and cut the mortises for your hinges. With the door moving freely, remove it from the cupboard and drill pilot holes through the door and battens for nails.


You will clench these nails, which means you’ll bend them over on the inside of the door. I used 2d cut headless brads. Drive them through the front of the door and through each batten.

Clenching is a cinch. Drive the tips of your headless brads back into the battens while the door rests on a metal surface.


When all the nails are driven in, turn the assembled door over onto a metal surface and hammer the tips of the nails. This will bend them over into the wood, securing them. Then cut the hinge gains, hang the door and make a turn to hold the door closed. The original also had a little knob, which is best turned on a lathe.


While the finished cabinet will have too much metal to pass through airport security, I guarantee the nails will help your piece last as long as the original. PWM


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