When setting up shop, probably the last place you should search for the tools you need is in a tool catalog. The catalogs and supply stores are clogged with an array of tools, jigs and other equipment that all look absolutely essential.
Truth is, most of those tools are essential, but just not for every shop and every woodworker. The core list of tools you need to build furniture is actually pretty small.
We set out to develop our own list of “must-have” tools for a shop that blends hand and power tools, but we quickly discovered that someone had already done the job for us – and done it well.
The late Charles H. Hayward was a 20th-century woodworking writer who had been traditionally trained in professional English shops when both hand and power tools were common. Hayward wrote many classics, including “Woodwork Joints,” “Cabinetmaking for Beginners” and “English Period Furniture.” He also was the editor of England’s Woodworker Magazine.
All of his books are out of print, though they are easy to find used on the Internet.
One of Hayward’s best books, “Tools for Woodwork,” explains how to use most basic hand tools and hand-held power tools. At the back of that book is a “suggested kit for the man taking up woodwork seriously.” We’ve decided to print his basic list and illustration (at right) with our commentary following each entry. Plus, we’ve included a list of what we consider to be the essential and recommended power tools.
The Preliminary Tool Kit
These are the hand tools Hayward says you should purchase before you cut your first stick of wood. The numbers before each entry correspond with the numbers in the illustration. Download the pdf at the end of this article for the full-size illustration.
1. Crosscut handsaw, 22": This is technically a panel saw. It is useful for breaking down large planks you before flatten them.
2. Backsaw, 10": Presumably a carcase saw and filed crosscut, this tool will make your finishing cuts and is typically used with the bench hook.
3. Dovetail saw, 8": We prefer a 15-point saw that is filed for ripping cuts.
7. Jack plane: Hayward seems to prefer this plane for processing rough lumber. A 14"-long plane is typical.
8. Fore plane: Hayward seems to prefer this size plane (about 18") for shooting the edges of boards instead of a jointer plane.
9. Smoothing plane: The smoothing plane is the last plane to touch the work before scrapers or sandpaper. A 10"-long plane is a typical size.
15. Firmer chisels, 1/4" and 3/4": These were once common tools without the beveled edges that are comm...
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